This 1950s Ulysse Nardin Calatrava-style wristwatch captures a moment when Swiss watchmaking was quietly redefining elegance after the war. Known primarily for marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin approached dress watches with the same discipline and restraint, producing pieces that favored proportion and clarity over ornament. This watch sits firmly in that tradition. It is understated, confident, and built to be worn daily rather than admired from a distance.
The stainless steel case features softly curved lugs that flow naturally. With mid-century Calatrava dimensions, it wears light and balanced on the wrist. The case back is stamped “acier inoxydable,” a reminder that steel was still a deliberate and modern choice at the time, prized for practicality rather than trend. Inside, a manually wound Ulysse Nardin movement delivers quiet reliability, finished with extreme care and precision but without excess, exactly as you would expect from the brand in this era.
The salmon dial is the heart of the watch. Warm and even in tone, it shifts gently with the light rather than demanding attention. Elongated black-painted Arabic numerals give the dial depth and refinement accompanied by slender blued steel hands. The small seconds at six anchors the design and reinforces its mid-century character. Everything feels intentional. Nothing added for effect.
In historical context, this reference reflects Ulysse Nardin’s thoughtful expansion beyond precision instruments and into everyday elegance during the 1940s and 1950s. While the Calatrava style is often associated with manufacturers like Patek Philippe, watches like this show how confidently Ulysse Nardin interpreted the form in its own voice. It is a watch for someone who values nuance, proportion, and history.
Note: These photos were taken prior to service.
